The Amarnath Cave was where Lord Shiva narrated the secret of immortality, the Amar Katha to his wife Parvati. Shiva hesitated at first but finally gave in. He wanted to reveal the secret in an isolated place far from any living being and thus chose the Amarnath Cave. In preparation, Shiva left his Nandi (the Bull), which he rode at Pahalgam. At Chandanwari, he released the moon from his hair and on the banks of Lake Sheshnag, he released the snakes. Son Ganesha was left at Mahagunas Parvat and at Panjtarni, Shiva left the Five Elements behind - earth, water, air, fire and sky - that make life possible. As a final precaution, Shiva created Rudra named Kalagni and ordered him to set afire and eliminate every living thing in and around the Holy Cave. Finally, Shiva and Parvati entered the Amarnath Cave where he began meditating on a deerskin. He then narrated the Amar Katha to Parvati.

Unknown to them, a pair of mating doves eavesdropped on this conversation and learned the secret. Reborn again and again, they have made the cave their eternal abode. Today, pilgrims claim seeing the pair of doves when they trek the arduous route to pay their obeisance at Shivalinga formed naturally of an ice stalagmite.

The Yatra to the Cave involves a trek to a height of 14,500 ft. The views are spectacular with beautiful valleys and awesome mountains. The air is clear and the silence deafening. The trek is not an easy one, however, as the climatic conditions are very uncertain. Rain or snowfall close in without warning and temperatures may plummet drastically. Pilgrims, therefore, need to be medically fit and in good physical condition.

Pilgrims are ideally required to reach Jammu five days before the allotted date of Darshan (Prayer Offering) and at the respective base-camps four days in advance in case of the Pahalgam route and three days in case of the Sonamarg-Baltal route.

Jammu - Pahalgam - Amarnath Cave route: The distance between Jammu and Pahalgam (315 kms) can be covered by road in taxis or buses. These are available at Tourist Reception Center, J&K Govt., early in the morning. There is also a flight to Srinagar from where Pahalgam is 96 kms by road.

Pahalgam is a small pleasant town known for its beauty. It stands on the banks of the Lidder River and is surrounded by mountains. Chandanwari is 16 kms away from Pahalgam, a distance that can be covered by road. If walking is preferred, the trail runs along the Lidder River. The route is scenic and the town has some good food outlets. Pilgrims camp at Pahalgam or Chandanwari on the first night.

Further on from Chandanwari, it's a considerable trek to reach Pissu Top. According to Hindu mythology, in the race to be the first for Darshan of Shiva, a war ensued between the Gods and demons. But with the power of Shiva on their side, the Gods killed the demons and in such large numbers that the heap of their dead bodies resulted in this high mountain. The trek carries on through some spectacular countryside and reaches Sheshnag, a mountain that derives its name from its seven peaks, resembling the heads of the mythical snake. The trail to Sheshnag goes through steep inclines on the right bank of a cascading stream. The second night's camp at Sheshnag overlooks the deep blue waters of Sheshnag Lake and the glaciers beyond it.

From Sheshnag, the trek continues for 4.6 kms across a steep incline across Mahagunas Pass at 14,000 ft. Then, descend to the meadows of Panchtarni at a height of 12,000 ft. The route to Mahagunas is interspersed with rivulets, waterfalls and springs. Panchtarni is on the foothills of Bhairav Mount, where five rivers flow said to originate from Shiva's matted hair. Pilgrims camp at Panchtarni on the third night. It is also the last camp en route the Cave.

The Amarnath Cave is only 6 kms from Panchtarni. As there is no place to stay en route, pilgrims start trekking early in the morning. On the way, cross the confluence of the Amravati and Panchtarni Rivers. Some bathe at Amravati near holy Cave before going in for Darshan (Prayer). The color of the soil changes near the Cave to white and is called 'bhasam' and usually applied all over the body. It is easy to come back to Panchtarni the same day or to even carry on till Sheshnag.


Jammu - Baltal - Amarnath Cave route: The distance between Jammu and Baltal (400 kms) can be covered by road in taxis or buses. These are available at Tourist Reception Center, J&K Govt., early in the morning. There is also a flight to Srinagar from where Baltal is 14 kms by road. The road passes through picturesque steep green valleys, high mountains and dense forests. This distance can be covered by foot or on ponies. Dandies (wooden carriers) are also available for handicapped and aged pilgrims. The width of the pebbled road is a bit narrow as compared to the Chandanwari route. Moreover, there are some steep rises and falls on the way. However, it takes only a day to return to the base camp at Baltal on this route.

Notes…

Registration: To join the Yatra, get registered at the J&K Government Tourist Office in your city. Each pilgrim has to submit a separate application for registration and is issued a registration-cum-identity slip. It's advisable to carry this identity slip during the Yatra. Sadhus (Holy Men) are not required to go through the normal registration procedure.

Insurance: The Yatra goes through unpredictable terrain so it's a good idea for pilgrims to get insured suitably. It is advisable that insurance cover be done before leaving. However, arrangements for insurance will also be available at the two base camps during the Yatra.

Health: Because this is a strenuous trek in prohibitive terrain and weather conditions, it calls for exceptional fitness levels. Evening walks or running for about 4-5 kms per day, at least two months prior to the Yatra should be good practice. Deep breathing exercises will also increase the body's efficiency of using oxygen.

The Cave entrance is a very visible hole on the side of the mountain. Inside, it has the Shivalinga formed naturally of an ice stalagmite. Unbelievably, it waxes and wanes according to lunar patterns. By its side are two more ice lingams, of Parvati and Ganesha. There is no place to camp here overnight so returning to Panchtarni is a must.

The Yatra takes place every year during July-August. The dates, however, vary every year according to the weather conditions and the Hindu calendar that follows lunar patterns.